Karen’s Musings & Endurance Ride Stuff

I regularly winterize my trailer after each trip during a large part of the year due to the climate I live in.  Which means that I winterize my trailer after every trip between now (late October) through May. I can’t count on there not being any hard freezes so it’s better to be safe than sorry.

I got my current LQ trailer in June 2003, so it’s been through nearly seven ride seasons so far and I haven’t managed to break any of the plumbing. {knocking on wood}

Make sure you drain ALL the water out of your shower hose too!

I’m so used to winterizing everything in the trailer so often now that it’s become routine. I usually start the process before I get home from each trip. I try to drain out all of the extra horse and LQ water and whenever possible I stop at a dumping facility to empty the grey and blackwater tanks so that I don’t have to do it after I get home. After I do that, I open everything up so that the tanks and plumbing have a chance to drain thoroughly on the remainder of the trip home.

Here is a list of things that are useful to do if you are planning on not using your LQ trailer during the winter, or if you are going to be storing it for an extended period.

• Empty all of your holding tanks.
• Drain water from all the valves inside your trailer. My living quarter part of the trailer has three valves that I need to open to completely clear out all of the living quarter water. Make sure you get them all!
• Open the panel outside your trailer where your water heater is. Flip the switch that drains the water for it. (see photos)
• Your water heater will drain a little faster if you open a couple of hot water taps in your trailer.  I usually open up all of the faucets, and shower head.
• Drain all water from any outside water tanks as well.
• Leave the valves open so water won’t condensate or drip down and cause the valves or other plumbing parts to freeze and crack.  You’ll need to remember to close the valves again when getting ready for your next trip.
• Put RV antifreeze into the drains of your sink and shower. You may wish to run the antifreeze through your water pump and if so you’ll need a gallon or two for each winterizing. I don’t do this — but my trailer usually doesn’t go very long even in the winter between uses.
• Defrost and clean the refrigerator. Leave the door cracked and put an open box of baking soda in it to absorb odors.
• Clean the oven or microwave.
• Clean the inside of the living quarters and remove all perishable food items to avoid attracting pests. Leave all drawers, doors and cabinets open to air.
• Clean the horse part of the trailer of all hay and horse feed so that it doesn’t mold or attract pests.
• Clean the air-conditioner if you have one and cover it with a heavy plastic bag.
• Seal all outside openings.
• Check battery water.
• For extended periods consider removing or disconnecting the deep cycle, and lead-acid batteries. My batteries are kept charged though a large solar panel on the top of the trailer. My trailer was set up to run entirely off of solar, which it does about 95% of the time.
• Turn off the pilot lights and the propane. I like to fill my propane tanks up so they will be ready to go for the next trip.
• Make sure all of your tanks, heaters, pumps, appliances and electrical switched are turned off.
• If storing your trailer outside, cover its tires. It’s a good idea first to check tire pressures and make sure they are at the correct pressure.  I always cover the tires any time the trailer will be sitting for more than a week.
• If you have a generator check the oil and see if the filter needs changing.
• Close all the blinds and curtains, and protect them from sun fading by placing foil or paper between the windows and screen.
• Make sure all windows, doors, and vents are closed securely. Cover exterior vents on appliances to prevent moisture and insects from entering during storage.
• Wash and wax the exterior of your trailer.
• Wash and clean out the inside of the horse part of the trailer.

Make sure you don't forget any valves!

It’s also a good idea to do these things while the trailer is not being used for extended periods:

Check the interior of the horse trailer periodically to make sure leaks have not developed or condensation formed that can cause damage to your interior. Condensation can easily be observed as moisture accumulation on windows and mirrors. To reduce condensation, make sure to air the horse trailer out occasionally during storage.

Check your batteries once a month for charge. If the charge is 80% or less, it should be recharged. Be sure that your battery or batteries have the proper water level and that they are fully charged. A discharged battery will freeze and crack the case, ruining the battery. In storage, a battery will lose charge gradually over a 30 to 45 day period, even when disconnected by use of the battery disconnect switch.

I keep my batteries in an insulated battery box. You may wish to remove your batteries from the horse trailer and store them in a heated area. Even when warm, the battery charge level must still be maintained. A warm battery accepts charge much more readily than a cold one.

Since my trailer is a gooseneck, I also put my gooseneck lock on it and lock up my mangers, living quarters and tack compartment.

I know this seems like a lot to do, but really it isn’t too bad. If I start with draining and emptying everything out on the trip home then the rest doesn’t take that much time after I get home.

The more you do after a trip the less you have to do to get ready for the next one.

I’m telling ya – riding the actual endurance ride, is so much easier than getting there (and back)!

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